CanKata still not sold

A quick update: CanKata has still not sold. We are still having loads of fun living on her. Our unit is being rented out and maintained by the Dewa Resort.

We may have someone interested in buying her … but we need to settle on a price.  We’ll keep you informed.

Racha Noi

by Darrel

During the SW Monsoon season, Loretta and I have to stay on the east coast of Phuket. The most common anchorage is Ao Chalong which is a great port for provisioning, getting massages, eating out, finding spare parts, catching local bus to Phuket Town, and socializing with other cruisers.  However the water is less than idyllic and during a real blow there is often a boat or two that goes AWOL. We have recently had a near miss and in fact had to start the engines to motor out of the way of a drifting diving boat.

We have made a few trips up to Phangna Bay as well as to some local islands close to Ao Chalong to get away, but even then the water is not clear enough to don our snorkel gear.

Lately we have been making trips to Racha Noi, an uninhabited island, which is located about 22 miles due south of Ao Chalong which makes for a nice beam or broad reach sail. Even when the wind is blowing like stink, i.e., 34 knots, and as long as the seas have not built more than 6 feet, it can still be a decent sail. During one of our last trips, returning from Racha Noi, we recorded just over 10 knots which is very fast for CanKata.

CanKata anchored at Racha Noi, all alone.

So now we are in the habit of heading out to Racha Noi whenever there is a decent break in the weather. Unfortunately, we cannot receive internet, or telephone, there so once there we are out of “the know”.

We anchor in a well protected bay along the east coast of Rocha Noi and are usually the only boat there, giving us the seclusion and peace that we often can only dream of. The water is crystal clear, the coral is on the rebound, and there are numerous fishes to keep us entertained when we go snorkelling. There is also a clothing optional beach with white powdery sand, all to ourselves.

When we spent our first two years in the Caribbean, it was places like this that we were always on the lookout for. Here we have one almost in our own backyard.

Sometimes we share the anchorage with a raft of fishing boats.

There is a beautiful beach at our anchorage.

The beach has a shady spot, perfect for dinghy maintenance.

Loretta has started a "broken operculum garden" on the beach.

L:  "It's my kind of place."

Driving Me Crazy

by Darrel

As a segue to this story I would like to remind you of Ravi (written about in  the “Expiration” story in our 2010 archived web page), a Malaysian chap that we met in Langkawi a few years back, who was instrumental in getting me a Malaysian driver’s license. Without his help I know that I would not have gotten the license because there have been a number of fellow cruisers who have since tried without success. Thanks again Ravi, and yes I have kept my license current by simply making a quick visit to the license office and giving them 50 Ringgits.

Because Loretta and I have decided to live in Thailand we both thought that it would be wise for me to have a Thai license. Not only will it make it legal for me to drive here, it will also get us into a number of facilities at the local rate, rather than the tourist rate.

When I began researching what was involved in getting a Thai license I found that it may not be that easy. One fellow told me that it took him three full days to get his license. Not only were there a number of bureaucratic steps that had to be followed including: completing numerous forms (some only in Thai); a number of visits to Immigration; obtaining a medical certificate; as well as some way to certify that I do in fact live in Thailand; and then a visit or two to the local licensing office where I would have to do a written test, eye test and lastly a driving test. Holy crap is it really worth it!?

To get the process started I visited Immigration and picked up a form to complete, then I went to a local clinic to see Dr. Titti (yah I thought her name had a nice ring to it). After waiting less than 5 minutes I was escorted into see Dr. Titti and “he” asked me what my problem was. Luckily Loretta was not there with me so I could keep the answer short and to the point. I told him that I was trying to get a Thai License and I needed a medical certificate. He quickly signed a form, two actually – one for my Thai car driver’s license, and one for my Thai motorcycle license. Then I was escorted back to the waiting room where one of the desk staff gave me an eye test. I had anticipated this so I had my reading glasses at the ready but hoping not to have to use them. Unfortunately the eye test was for colour blindness not vision. What’s the point in knowing the colour of the traffic lights if you can’t see them? The lady pointed to a chart with 6 boxes located about 10 feet in front of me and asked me to call out the numbers. I quickly identified the first 4 and then when I looked at the fifth box all I could make out was haze. After a fairly lengthy pause, the lady took her wand and drew a 6 in the box. I said 6 with some hesitation thinking this was a test of a test, but she quickly said great you passed.

The next day Loretta and I peddled our bicycles to Phuket Town about 45 minutes away to return to the Immigration office with my completed forms, medical certificate(s), passport photos, copies of our condominium Land Title (which is all in Thai and I can only assume that it contains my name) to certify my Thai residency, passport, entry stamp, tourist visa, and of course some Thai bhats ($$). We arrived at Immigration around 9:45 and by 10:15 were on our way to the licensing office. Wow!

We arrived at the licensing office at 10:30 expecting to spend the entire day there based on the testimony from others as well as the staff at the Immigration office. At this point we were still being optimistic that we could complete this process today, but if worse came to worse, we were prepared to return the following day.

When I approached the front desk and informed the lovely Thai lady that I was there to apply for a Thai licence she quickly handed me a form and told me to return to the office tomorrow before 9:00 am. Having prepared myself for this I was able to handle the news and smiled and said okay, pop gan mai krap (see you later).

Before leaving, I said to Loretta that since we now have some free time, let’s find the board on the wall which lists all the answers to the written test (as informed by others). While we were looking at the questions and answers we were approached by a Thai lady who asked us where we were from and the usual questions. We kindly responded and then told her I was going to try to get a Thai driver’s license. She introduced herself as June and told us she has a driving license school and said she could help me get my license today since she had a friend working here. I quickly accepted her help and gave her all of my paperwork, licenses, passport, etc. She took all the info to the lady at the front counter who had only minutes ago politely told me to go away and after a brief discussion she handed me a queue ticket and another form. Then June escorted us to the waiting area and we sat there together until my number was called.

At this point I was not sure what I would be required to do, i.e., written test, driving test, or eye test.  When my number was called June went and talked to the office staff whom then proceeded to type my information into the computer. She then handed me a number of cards and asked me to read out the numbers. Damn, one little disability and it keeps coming back to haunt me. I went through the cards and did surprising well until one card where I said the number and the lady just stared at me and then said there are two numbers. “Oh”, and looked back at the card. By holding the card at different angles and squinting and putting my reading glasses on I was able to make out at least parts of the second number. Then a few cards later I came across a card that was similar to that at the medical clinic – nothing but haze. Hoping that the card was the same as the one at the clinic I said “six”, but the lady just kept looking at me. I then guessed 9, nothing, 5, nothing, 2 and then she smiled and said I passed. Whew, not sure how many guesses I was permitted and I didn’t get the impression that this lady was going to sketch the number for me.

After this June and I entered an office where my photo was taken and a machine pooped out two shiny new driver’s licenses. It was now only 11:30 am I am sure that this is the quickest record so far.

Loretta and I thanked June and gave her a small token for our appreciation. It is so nice to know that there are people like Ravi and June out there. I wonder if they would help me buy a lottery ticket?

Darrel's collection of current driving licenses.

 

Loretta is going to stick to riding bicycles.

Rock and Rolling

By Darrel

In preparation to return to our landlubber status Loretta and I have tossed around a few ideas to fill our time, i.e., when we are not: sleeping, eating, reading, socializing, getting massaged, eating, shopping at local markets, drinking, etc.  Some of the ideas suggested so far are: bike riding, beach combing, studying Thai, cleaning up litter in our community, kite surfing, looking for treasures with a metal detector, eating, traveling, running (Loretta) – I only take up running when I am being chased, etc.

However, when we recently met up with another cruising couple, Graham and Sue from Chandrika, we were invited to join them in their passion of rock climbing. Unbeknownst to us, rock climbing is huge in Thailand. As a matter of fact Graham and Sue sailed all the way from the Marshall Islands in the South Pacific straight here, 4600 miles, in order to get a jump start on the climbing season. They plan to stay in this area for a few years only to get their fill of rock climbing.

After our first encounter with them they invited us to Koh Yao Noi up in Phangna Bay where there are some tall vertical limestone cliffs. Loretta and I knew of these cliffs, which rise straight up from the sea to some 500 feet into the heavens, but I thought that they only climbed up the same height as what you would see in an indoor rock climbing place, i.e., 20 or 30 feet. So when they invited us to give it a whirl, that is the height that I was preparing myself for.

So off we sailed to Koh Yao Noi and after having a great evening with Graham and Sue, and Gerd and Sylvia from Daedalus, and a very peaceful night, we headed off on a rocky, slippery and wild path to reach the base camp where we would begin our rock climb. Not only are Graham and Sue very competent and experienced rockers, they are also the same age as our son. In other words, a bit younger than us.

Sue told us that she would do the first climb while Graham belayed her (held the other end of the rope that Sue was connected to so that in case of a fall he would be able to prevent her from demonstrating the effects of gravitational forces). So up she went as Loretta, Sylvia and I watched her technique and listened to Graham explain how Sue managed to climb straight up by clinging onto ½ inch finger and toe holds. Yikes we all thought, what have we got ourselves into. When Sue reached my expected elevation of 30 feet she just kept on going. Yikes what the $#*& have we got ourselves into. I believe it was at this point that Loretta quietly stated “I think I will give this a miss” then she started mumbling about some leg injury that she got when she was 4 or 5 years of age.

Upon Sue’s return to base camp, with only one fall, Graham said okay Darrel you're up. All I could think of was a leg injury that I received when I was 4 or 5 years of age, but that excuse was already taken.

So I put on the harness, took off my sandals since I did not have proper rock climbing shoes, and grabbed onto the first little ledge that my fingers could reach. After reaching the first stalactite which was about 12 feet up I looked down and said “okay that was fun, I think I will come down now”. There was an immediate reaction from my two rock climbing instructors as well as the peanut gallery who were saying that I should try to continue since I have done so well thus far. Yikes peer pressure is bad enough, but when my lovely soul mate is encouraging me to continue, I had no other choice but to continue.

So up and up I went and actually found it was quite enthralling and invigorating. As I was climbing I tried to recall how high the little people some 40 feet below me said I should go. I think I heard one little voice say just continue up until you fall. Yikes! Well I did not make it up as high as Sue did but I made it much higher than what I had planned on.

About two weeks later, Graham, Sue and Loretta and I were off on a bit of a trek that Sue and Graham had partially scouted out earlier. They said it was a fairly easy trek and the sight from the top was spectacular. So off we went grabbing trees and rocks pulling ourselves along this “fairly easy trek”. When we were almost at the top where we would reach the spectacular lookout we ran into a bit of an obstacle where there was a 12' high cliff with the top section protruding outwards making it a difficult climb – at least in Loretta's and my minds. Not to worry, says Graham, we have all our rock climbing gear and we can get you two up and over this little obstacle with no problem.

Loretta quickly said that she was quite content to stay put, and I quickly added that I too was quite happy to camp out here while Graham and Sue headed for the summit. They said that they were okay to turn around if we were not up for the climb. I was just getting ready to have a sigh of relief when Loretta says “okay, lets do it, we have come this far and we are so close to the top we may as well continue." My mind was racing to come up with an excuse but all I could come up with was that lame leg injury story.

So Loretta put on the harness and up she went. When we reached the lookout it was then that I realized how high up we were. I must have been about 300 feet up and we could look straight down to the sea and outward to take in the beauty of Phangna Bay. Everyone said it was well worth the climb.

On the way back down, we reached the obstacle and I assumed it would be easier going down than up. But unfortunately because of the way the top of the cliff protruded out it made it difficult to get a toe grab for my feet dangling below my body which was being supported by my hands that were holding onto a rope. Without giving it a lot of thought (mistake) I thought I could swing out and while my body is swinging away from the protrusion I would quickly scramble down the rope so I would be below the protruding rock and be able to push my body off the under-hanging cliff with my feet. NOT. In theory it may have worked if was Spiderman, but since I am not, by the time the pendulum was swinging inward towards the cliff my arm was still at the point where it got squished between the rock and the weight of my swinging body. There were no broken bones but some mean looking gouges and bruises. I quickly recovered from my ungraceful decent and yelled up “the eagle has landed”. The other three came down without incident.

So the next time that I Rock and Roll it will be to the beat of a band. I think its time to go back and look at the other landlubber activities to choose from for when CanKata sells, for example eating.